Fisherman007
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Are you thinking summer or winter?
When I have keept my boat in the O-fjord during winter, I have used Killingen Båthavn on the southwest side of Bygdø. It has what we call "bobleanlegg", ie the water around the dock is airated to keep it from freezing. This combined with short access to the fjord means you can usually go from the dock and out into the fjord all through the winter. I spent 200+ hours in the boat in the O-fjord last winter from November through March.
In the summer Lakseberget might be worth a look, it's in Sandvika. But this area freezes up in the winter so your season is limited. Quite a few have their boats at Lakseberget in the summer and Killingen in the winter.
Pricewise Killingen is very reasonable in the winter, I have no idea what it costs in the summertime since i avoid the O-fjord like the plague in the summer.
Thanks again Erik ,ive sent a few emails to a few places and i will see what answers they will give me.
If i can i wil try and get a place further down nearer the west side of the Drøbak area because ive fished down there before even in the summer and had great days or i might try and get a place in the Drammensfjord because ive had alot of good days there as well ..
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Can anyone recommend a good cheap place for mooring on the west side of the oslo fjord ?
I am thinking more for next year and i want to get an idea of prices.
Also can you pay in monthly installments in these kind of places ?
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Trolling like now with downrigger, total depth around 20-30 meters and your lure just above bottom and up to 4-5 meters above bottom.
Second option is vertical jigging.
Keep in mind that their spawningtime is coming up now, do they are on the move.
Ok thanks man
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Unless You fish for char (røye) then hoist that downrigger up to 10 meters or so.
With your boat and engine 25L over 6 hours sounds about right. Old two strokes do use a bit of fuel while trolling. My 80HP fourstroke would use about the same. With my 6HP fourstroke i can go trolling for 2-3 days on 12L. Size (and age) does matter.
So its a second smaller outboard i need then ,thats a good solution because i was starting to think it was going to cost me a fortune in fuel otherwise.
Just out of interest how would i fish for char ? i cant remember ever catching one.
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I had the boat out on the tyrifjord last weekend but i didnt catch anything hahaha
The downrigger thing i made worked great ,i could see it on fishfinder and i had it down about 20 meters because i think i could see the thermocline ? down at 25 meters ...does that sound right?
Anyways sorry if i got in anybodys way because i did see another couple of boats
also one last thing i used 25liters of fuel trolling is that alot ? i went nearly everywhere at about 2-3 knots over 6 hours.
Maybe i need to get a smaller trolling engine .
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Here is my Diy downrigger.
The rod is an old boat rod that i never used because it was to stiff.
The Real is a cheapy from ebay that holds 100kg braid.
The weights are from my weightlifting set but i dont use 0.5 and 1kg weights so they have a use in something else now.
The tails are just Ikea cutting board cut up with a hole the same diameter as the weights.
The clips are Scotty downrigger clips .
This gives me a 1kg and 2 kg downrigger
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Congrats on the boat!
If you mix the oil directly in the petrol, using two petrolcans might be a good idea. One with the normal oilmix for high speed transportation, and one with half of the oil for trolling. (This is how I did it back in my days with 2T). Using two small trollingankers ("drivanker" in Norwegian) is another trick, one on each side of the boat.
If trout is your target, you want to hold around 2,4-2,7 knots at this time of year in Tyrifjorden.
Btw; I keep my own boat at Storøen, so you are right in my neighbourhood.
Hi Neighbor
I have a smaller prop that also came with the boat so that should drop my speed for trolling,if the engine still wants to cut out i will try your other ideas with the mixing of oil and the side anchors.
I live up at the end of the Nordfjorden up the river and the boat will be moored at the back of my house from next year.
Yes it will be mainly trout fishing i do in the Tyrifjord with the odd trip to the Drammensfjord and probably the odd seafishing trip to the Oslofjord and other areas for bait fishing mackeral/torsk ect.
Today as i said i will change prop,sparkplugs,fueline ect and i have a little idea for a brokmans downrigger i will make and share a little latter on.
It might look crap but it will get me fishing which is the main thing.
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Hello everyone,i eventually settled for that 16 ft Askeladden
Ive had the boat out twice on the Tyrifjord so far and the launching is easier than i thought it was going to be which is of great relief.
I have also fitted a Lowrance HDI 4 on it which works great ,i also tried a little light trolling but the 2 stroke 30hp outboard kept on cutting out on low revs,slowest i could get it going without cutting out was about 3kph.
I can increase the revs to keep it alive but then that effects the slow trolling speed.
I have ordered some redex from Britain that i know is good for cleaning out petrol injection engines so i will see how that goes,if that doesnt work i will look into getting the carbs stripped and cleaned.
i will also replace the fuel line tomorrow because it might be to much air getting into the system.
I do have an old electric outboard that i gerry rigged to run on a kayak that i might gerry rig back to the boat just for trolling.
So i have lots of little jobs to do and alot of learning but i dont mind because fishing is my passion
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Da jeg endelig fikk jolleplass i Oslofjorden kjøpte jeg meg en jolle: Terhi Micro Fun med styrekonsoll og 9.9 hk Tohatsu totakter. Ikke akkurat beregnet for fisking men med litt modifisering blir den iallefall en god oppgradering fra gummibåten! Dessuten slipper jeg å blåse den opp hver gang jeg skal ut å fiske
Kjøpte noen syrefaste rekker for å feste stangholderene på. Etter å ha oppdaget at disse var for brede for båtripa tok jeg drillen å borret nye hull i rekkene som var tettere. Gjennom Erik sin Evada-tråd her på forumet fikk jeg tips om å bruke olje som jeg dyppet boret i med jevne mellomrom.
De ble så skrudd til båtripa med Tec7 som lim og ikke minst for å forhindre vanninntrengning inn i dobbeltskråget.
Da ble stangholderne enkelt festet til rekkene.
Ekkolodd braketten ble festet til styrekonsollen med ledning ned til et selvlaget lithium-batteri 12v. Giveren ble festet med den hjemmelagde portable versjonen. Da var båten klar for trolling!
Planen videre er å få montert et feste for el-motor ved siden av bensinmotoren...
Hello old post and sorry for not speaking Norwegian but where did you get these rod holders from ?
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Yes since you are quite old
, that would say born born prior to the 1st of January 1980. The rules from the 1st of May 2010 about a certificate of boatmanship do not apply to you. If you want to go all in, and still not want to be regarded as flamboyant, but more humble. The meek shall inherit the Eart you know. I personal would go for this onehttp://m.finn.no/boat/forsale/ad.html?finnkode=62190037&q=princess+48&ref=fas
Thanks i think
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No you will not. You were born before 1 January 1980. So you do not need certificate of boatmanship in order to drive a pleasure craft of more than eight metres in length or with an engine bigger than 25 horsepower. As long as your craft is no more than 15 metres in length
Really ? so i 100% do not need a licence for this http://www.finn.no/finn/boat/used/object?finnkode=64777267
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Just southwest for the launch. The big parking lot. I believe it is free. They did do a whole bunch of work at the parking lot, so not 100% sure. Otherwise it would be the parking lot straight west.
Awesome .i looked on the maps and i can see where you mean.
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I havnt got a boat yet but i was looking for places i can launch from.
Can anyone tell me about
Holmenskjaeret ?I see its free to use the slip but where do you park if you have a trailer?
I fished not to far from there last summer from my kayak and i had some cracking fishing so i figured it would be a good place to start with the boat.
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Both Pioneer and Askeladden are classics. But if that Pioneer has been stored in the sun, the plastic (these are not fiberglass) looses its flexibility and it becomes britle if its really old. Try pressing it, it should feel "softish". You can not repair this the same way as with fiberglass, it can be done but it`s a very different process.
Askeladden 16`to big? That depends more on you then the boat.
Having a roof to crawl under can be quite nice here in Norway. I would need a boat licence for a that Askeladden with that engine,i am really after something smaller so i can get used to loading trailers and safety and all that kind of stuff first because ive never had a boat before.
So today iam still looking and waiting and waiting and waiting on the right boat to appear lol
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Are these plastic boats any good ?
http://www.finn.no/finn/boat/used/object?folderId=5394874&finnkode=62893304
I also like this but i think it might be a little bit to big for me ?
http://www.finn.no/finn/boat/used/viewimage?finnkode=64777267
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One other thing. Reading the add on finn.no. For the first that boat and probably the engine is quite old. Also from what I see, the engine may(not saying that it is) be somewhat neglected. Like the pulley cord is missing. Do not buy it without starting it in water no matter what the seller say. It should start easy and run good, look for bad pulley mechanism and problems with the water pump. Also ask about how the boat has been used (freshwater or salt water).
It doesnt look to good so far,i have been in contact with the owner and the trailer is the cheap biltema one so its not road worthy
I think i will give this one a miss.
The hunt continues
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Glass fibers is hygroscopic, so it will readily taking up and retaining moisture then exposed to water. This will cause the damaged area to be weak and britlle. The area damaged may be larger than what is visible. It is kind of rust on a car. Everything that is damaged has to go. If not it will only spread like rot. If the gelcoat is cracked on both inside and outside. You have a hole in your boat
What you need is a biberglass boat repair kit. That contain glass fibre mat, and epoxy resin with hardner and maybe some sort of filler. Use gelcoat as a finishing touch afterwards only. The job itself is doable. But take your time and work slow. Showing great attention to detail and be very careful and precise. It is very important to work on clean surfaces. Any kind of grease and fat is poison in such repairs. Then hardner is mixed into the epoxy. It will cure VERY fast. Do not mix more than you will be useing in say 15 minutes top
Here is link detailing the repair process
http://www.westsysteminternational.com/images/Glass_fibre_boat_repair_kit_instructions.pdf
Thanks for this
The photos are from when i mounted something on my boat that ment I had to reinforce the fiberglass hull. But the principle is the same.
First, grind down the damaged area. Make sure all damaged material is removed, and that there are no hard/ sharp edges left. You can not lay fiberglass around or in sharp corners, everything has to be smooth.
What I used for the grinding, with my electric drill.
Since I was mounting something that needed three bolts, I made three holes through the hull. You should offcourse not make these holes, just grind down all damaged fiberglass and gelcoat. Grind away, at least 3-5 cm larger area then what was damaged so you make sure your new fiberglass attaches to undamaged fiberglass.
After the grinding, clean CAREFULLY with acetone. It is VERY important that the whole area is cleaned throughly. If not, the binding-agent will not stick. Keep in mind that acetone is an "angry" chemical, so clean your hands with plenty of soap and water after using it....
Cut fiberglass so it fits over the area you grinded.
If the area is deep, you need small pieces in the bottom, and larger pieces as you work your way up from the bottom of the hole. I used a total of 16-17 pieces of fiberglass to fill the hole I made.
Mix polyester and curing agent ("herder" in norwegian) according to the instructions on the box.
Use a (cheap) brush and aply a thin layer of the mixed polyester to the area, then put on one layer of fiberglass. Then another layer of mixed polyester, another layer of fiberglass and so on.
DO NOT build more then around 5 mm in each round. To thick a layer of curing polyester develops heat, and can actually set your boat on fire... So no more then 6-7 layers of fiberglass in each round, when using 300g or 450g fiberglass. Leave to cure completely. If you need to build up more then this, the waiting until the first round is cured is something you just have to live with.
I used a lot of layers, so it took med a couple of days.
Your worst enemies are not using enought polymer to cover everything, and air between your layers. Press down with the brush and your fingers to get all the small airbubles out, and any left-over polymer. Hardened polymer is britle, it is the fiberglass that provides strenght and flexibility.
And finally, the hole was filled:
Next step is more grinding, now to make the fiberglass and hardened polyester smooth.
You end up with one smooth patch.
With everything nice and smooth, you clean again with acetone. Then you need gelcoat.
The gelcoat also needs to be mixed with the same curing-agent, and aplied with a brush. Ending up like this:
When you are done with the gelcoat, cover the area with plastic for the gelcoat to cure/ harden. It WILL NOT harden if it is not covered with plastic.
The next day you can remove the plastic, and you are done. (At least until the next time your boats needs a bit of patching up....)
Shoppinglist from Biltema.
Fiberglass - 36081 "Glassfiberremse" or one of the glasfibersheets they have.
Polyester - 36075
Hardener - 36077
Gelcoat - 36080
Acetone - could not find this on their website, but they do have it in ther chemicals-department
As mentioned, mixed polyester and curing-agent develops heat when curing. Remember this when desposing of leftovers, don`t just pour mixed polyester in a bin. I used a small hard-plastic cup for my mixing, and just for the hell of it left it with 3-4 cm of mix in it to see what happened. The mix started to boil, and melted the plastic cup.
Cool,it looks doable for me and thanks a ton for the taking the time to write all this up and you even included the part numbers which is a massive help.
I am still waiting to hear back from the owner but hopefully i will get it by the weekend.
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I would not recommend trying a "quick fix" like that on something You are not shure on how. (How deep it goes, damage around the whole etc.)
Doing it the right way is not that hard or difficult, it will cost You a few hours and a few hundred NOK with materials from Biltema. I have a few photos on how to do it, and can write up something here if You want, but Google will bring You a Long way as well.
Short version: You should grind it down so You remove al the damaged glasfiber and gelcoat. Then aply new glasfiber and top it of with gelcoatpaint.
That would be great if you could .
I will try and tie up the deal with the owner and see what he says and let you know.
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Hi
You will probably have to both register the boat in one of the registers mentioned, and have a insurance on the boat to get a place in a harbour. Most harbours require this. But it is not very expensive, rggistry fee is somewhere between 100 and 200 kr, and insurance for damage on other boats and theft from around 500 and up, depending on the value of the boat
Yeah thanks ,i think ive got the basics of what i need to do now,not having any luck looking for a boat though ,i did see this yesterday
http://www.finn.no/finn/boat/used/object?folderId=5394874&finnkode=64095669
but i am not sure,the owner says it has small hole in it
Could i repair the hole with this stuff ?http://www.clasohlson.com/no/Epoxysparkel,-Plastic-Padding-Marine/34-1995
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Indeed it does.
The trailer is most likely registered already, but needs to be re-registered in your name. If it does not have plates, then thread carefully, it might not meet the requirements for registration.
Great advice,i am now waiting to here back from a couple of people regarding which small boat i will buy but i am in no rush.
I will post on here what boat i eventually end up with and again thank you for the help
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So i buy a boat preferably with trailer.
Get it home,register the trailer with Statsvagen and register the boat with Småbåtregistret .
Sound like a good plan ?
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Who do i register the trailer with ?
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Ok so the only thing i have to do is register the boat and trailer or do i not have to do that ether because the boats under a certain size ?
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This is correct.
Thanks you,i just came across this article.
"If you were born after 1 January 1980, you must have a certificate of boatmanship in order to drive a pleasure craft of more than eight metres in length or with an engine bigger than 25 horsepower. The driver of a pleasure craft that can go faster than ten knots or that has an engine bigger than ten hp must be over 16 years of age. "
So if i were to buy a boat like the one i linked i wouldnt need a boat licence, it would just have to register the trailer?
Randselva regulations
i Open forum for non Norwegian speakers
Skrevet
Hello again
Can someone please help me understand the rules for that river?
I can see where I buy a permit on Inatur ,but i dont know if i am allowed to bait fish?e.g legering with a large worm?
is it fly and spinner only ?
also is there a minimum size limit ? I see all fish over 40cm to be returned, what about a bag limit how much are you allowed to keep ?
I would like to try fishing there this weekend but obviously I want to stay within the rules.